WEAVING

WEAVING DEPARTMENT

STANDARD OPERATING MANUAL

PROCESS DEFINITION

1.0 Weaving Process

                                   Weaving is a process of interlacement of two sets of threads namely the warp and weft threads in lengthwise and crosswise respectively to form a fabric. The Weaving loom introduces machine settings like warp and weft tension, speed, fabric design, ends per inch, pick per inch and many other loom settings to achieve the denim fabric property like width, twill design and weight of fabric in Oz/yds. Hence, relatively Weaving runs:

·       That the fabric construction runs according to customer specifications

·       Ensure fabric loom setting is repeatable in terms of loom efficiency and quality.

2.0  Methodology

                                 The Fabric is weaved from different types of looms like Air jet looms, Projectile and Rapier looms correspond from any desired fabric design like plain weave, twill weave and satin weave

    

3.1 Loom Definitions:

                     

S #	Looms	Definitions
1.0	Air Jet	- A loom in which the weft yarn is propelled through the shed by means   of a jet of air.
2.0	Rapier	- One type has a long rapier that reaches across the loom’s width to   carry the filling to the other side.    Another type has two small rapiers, one of each side. One rapier    carries the filling yarn halfway through the shed, where it is met by      the other rapier, which carries the filling the rest of the way across the    loom.
3.0	Projectile	- A shuttle-less loom method of filling yarn insertion using a small metal   device resembling a bullet in appearance with clamp for gripping the   yarn at one end, which is then propelled into and through the shed.

                          

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3.2 Weave Definitions:

S#	Weave		Definitions
1.0	Plain Weave	1  x  1 weave	- Consist of one thread over and one thread under.     This type is found in shirting goods.
2.0	Twill Weave	3/1- RHT / LHT    2/1- RHT / LHT 3/1  Broken Twill  3/1  Hearing Bone	- Has each warp thread passing over two or more   filling threads, with the interlacing advancing one     thread on successive warps. This type, with its “diagonal line” is found in denim.
3.0	Satin Weave	4/1 RH/LH weave	- Has few interlacing widely but regularly spaced,   resulting in a lustrous right side and dull back.   This weave usually found in dress goods

4.0 Loom Machine Process Flow:

Sequence	Terms	Definitions
1.	Sized Warp	- Sized warp/threads from sizing are wound into loom beams
2.	Drop wires	- Sized threads are inserted and pass to the drop wire with stop motion device incase individual    thread breaks. - The device  will prevent further fabric defects like miss-end or loose ends when sized thread    breaks
4.	Harness	- Elevates the warp threads to build-up shed opening for weft insertion according to twill
5.	Reeds	- Used according to number of warp ends in a dent and the units is dent per inch or meter
6.	Weft Thread	- Loom device that would carry the weft threads and inserted across when warp is open    to achieve required twill pattern of fabric.
7.	Leno Selvedge	- Poly fiber yarn used and weave to strengthen the picking side selvedge of   fabric and let the selvedge get more stronger to avoid folding in finishing process.
9.	Greige Fabric	- A product of weaving after two yarns warp and weft are being weave according to pattern    and wound into batching and ready for greige inspection or right into finishing.

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5.0 Product Working Procedure

                                                                                                     

5.1 Definitions

Terms	Procedures
1. Running Product	-  Threads of new sized warp are directly knotted to the threads of running out warp by means of    warp tying machine and run in loom according to set pattern.
2. New Product	- Sized warps are brought to the Draw-In room, and each warp threads are inserted manually into the           drop wires, heddle and reed to meet the required pattern of greige cloth.
3. Sample Product	- If the pattern of new sample is the same in running article then do the knotting of sample   according to running article pattern. - If the new sample is not same pattern in running article then follow new article working methods

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6.0 PROCESS REQUIREMENTS

 6.1 Equipment Used

The details of Weaving looms used in BDL are as follows

·       Toyota Looms – Air Jet

·       Tsudakoma Looms –  Air jets

·       Manufacturer : Japan

 6.2 Key Accessories:

       Key accessories used for Weaving Process are:

·       Draw – in machine

·       Knotting Machine

·       Loom Beam Carrier

·       Warp Comb for knotting

·       Reeds

·       Traveler Cleaner

·       Scissor

·       Measuring Tape

·       Pick Counter

·       GSM Cutter

·       Weighing scale

·       Thread hook

·        Humidifier / Chiller

·       Humidity tester

·       Thermometer

·       Loom Beam

·       Cloth barrel

·       Cloth carrier

6.3 Materials / Chemical used

The following Materials are used for Weaving Process

·       Leno Selvage

·       Sized warp

·       Colored yarn for Selvage

·       Weft Yarn

·       Masking Tape

·       Fabric Marker

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7.0 SAFETY

      In order to ensure floor and personal safety, floor personnel are instructed to follow the safety guidelines

      given below:

·       Smoking is strictly prohibited in the factory premises.

·       Follow the safety instructions mentioned on the machine.

·       Put in a sign on when the maintenance work of the machine is going on.

·       Do not operate the machine wearing loose dress that could get entangled in the rotating parts.

·       Put mask on nose and mouth while running the machine.

·       Be careful in handling batching roller.

·       Do not touch the weft device when in motion.

·       Do not clean the loom while the machine is running.

·       For any unexpected electrical switch in absence of any electrician or responsible person.

·       Never touch the panel board without the help of Engineer or Production Executive

·       Carefully handle the batcher while inserting or releasing during operation

8.0  OPERATION PROCEDURE:

 8.1 Operation Staff

           Weaving Operation staff includes:

1.     Production Executive

2.     Loom Operator

3.     Assistant Operator

4.     Fabric Doffer

5.     Sized beam and Weft yarn Hauler

6.     Fabric Quality Inspector

7.     Loom Mechanics

8.     Production Planner

9.     Warp tier

10.  Helpers

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9.0 Standard Operating Procedures

S #	Tasks
1	Get Production Plan from Planning Manager.
2	Review the production plan according to loom assignments, sized warp and weft availability and no. of days to weave the fabric
3	Review loom settings according to article code like Reed availability, pick gear combination, tension settings and other important set –up to run the looms according to required quality.
4	Prepare accessories of sized warp in-case for draw-in pattern.
5	Check knotting group personnel and knotting machines and accessories availability.
6	Prepare manpower availability in running the planned looms
7	Plan for overtime hours and its cost and cost to produce if necessary.
8	Review plan for loom efficiency and productivity
9	Check loom utility requirements like power and air
10	Check loom shed humidification and ensure that relative humidity and temperature are being met inside the loom shed.
11	Prepare manpower to task of checking loom fabric quality
12	Check batching motion and cloth barrel availability
13	Loom is now ready for production
14	When loom is running check the first three meters of fabric according to target weave quality like Weight. Width, color and yarn/slub appearance, design and boil-off report.
15	Prepare daily loom production report, loom efficiency and greige fabric quality
16	Deliver greige fabric in batch roll to greige inspection according to roll length specified
17	Greige Inspection must report immediately whatever fabric faults arises so as looms can rectify quickly.

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10.0 Loom Checklists

·       Draw-in Pattern ·       No. of Frames ·       Size of Headle wire ·       Reed Width setting ·       Pick gear setting ·       Back rest height ·       Distance between drop wire and harness ·       Shedding height and opening ·       Selvedge type ·       Crossing point opening ·       Weft Selector ·       Drafting setting ·       Tension setting

11.0 Fabric Properties checking

·       EPI ·       PPI ·       Design ·       Color ·       Width ·       Weight ·       Warp & Weft yarn appearance ·       Slub yarn appearance

7

12.0  Product Quality Checking

Weaving Fabric Faults: Descriptions, Causes and Actions

Weaving Faults	Descriptions	Causes	Action
1. Abrasion Mark	- Area of the cloth or yarn being damaged by   friction that is rubbing against any sharp     objects or rough surfaces along its travel   path.	- Defective reed or drop wires - Broken guide tooth and heddle	- Replacement of defective parts
2. Cut- Pick	- A discontinuity of weft direction caused by    a break or cut of weft yarn	- Dropped pick - Improper setting of weft tension - Weak weft yarn	- Check air supply - Check weft setting - Replace weak weft yarn
3. Double Ends	- Double strands woven in one loop of weft	- Mis-drawn ends on the same    warp line position	- Counter check Draw-in method
4. Double Pick	- Two picks interlaced in the same shed	- Double end during winding	- Use correct pick finding after     weft break
5 Weft Loose	- A short length of weft yarn that has   spontaneously doubled back on itself and   forming  like loop	- Improper weft setting tension - Low Air supply	- Correct Weft insertion settings - Check air supply requirements
6. Mis-pick	- Pick not properly interlaced along its weft   travel path.	- Wrong pick -finding - Low Air supply	- Check pick finding after break - Check air supply requirements
7. Reed Mark	- Marks on the cloth caused by damage reed   tooth	- Damage reed	- Change Reed
8. Oil Stains	- Contaminated substance mark on fabric	- Oil leak from loom machine	- Notify Mechanic
9. Starting Mark	- Likely stop mark across the width of fabric	- Warp tension not properly     adjusted after loom has  stopped	- Check level tension adjustments
10. Temple Mark	- Abrasion on fabric from temple rings	- Improper setting of temple rolls	- Set temple rolls accordingly
11. Stop Mark	- Likely dark mark across the width of fabric	-Loom stop from different causes	- Avoid prolong loom stops - Check Auto - leveler

 

                                                                                                                               

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13.0  Griege Fabric Quality Determination and Standard

Loom Breaks/stops is a benchmark performance of  fabric quality in weaving to measure initially the fabric faults Whether it passes under export points grading system

                                       

13.1 Loom Standard – Air jet

Parameters	STANDARD
	Breaks per 100,000 picks (CMPX)	Breaks/ Hour	Breaks/ 8 hrs	Efficiency	Points /100-mtr
1. Warp Breaks-  Std	2.60CMPX	1.12	9	Loom Shed 92.0 %	28 defect points Average
2. Weft  Breaks - Std	3.20 CMPX	1.37	11
3. Mech/Elec stops-    Std	0.40 CMPX	0.25	1.5
4. Leno Stops -    Std	0.40 CMPX	0.25	1.5
Total Stops	6.6 CMPX	3.00	23

13.2 Loom Yarn Breaks Analysis & Standard

Warp Breaks                  =     9 warp breaks – std  x  100, 000 picks                                                          No. of picks run   -   8-hrs                                  =     9   x  100,000 picks - Constant                                                         335,000 picks –    Pick reading in loom after 8 hrs run                                    Warp Breaks –(Std)     =    2.60 breaks or CMPX   =  (1.12 breaks per hr  or 9 breaks per 8 hrs)

Weft Breaks                    =      11 weft breaks – std  x  100,000 picks                                                                    335,000 picks   Weft Breaks - Std           =    3.20  breaks or CMPX  = ( 1.37 breaks per hr or 11 breaks per 8 hrs)

                                                                               

Loom Stops                    =        1.5 stops – std   x  100,000 picks                                                                335,000 picks   Loom stops - Std           =         0.40 stops or CMPX   or   ( 1.5 stops per 8 hrs)

Leno Breaks                 =        1.5 breaks – std   x   100,000 pick                                                             335,000 picks   Leno Breaks - Std       =        0.40 breaks or CMPX  or  ( 1.5 stops per 8 hrs)

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13.3 Loom: Waste Standard

Parameters	Waste Allocation per Sized loom Beam
	Meters per Beam	%
1. Warp –out left over on beam	2.5	0.078
2. Warp Knotting	2.0	0.062
3. Pull – over – start new beam	2.5	0.078
4. Re-knotting /damage warp	0.5	0.016
5. Reserved ends	3.0	0.100
6. Total warp meters - waste	10.5
7. Average meters / Beam	3,200
Standard Warp Waste		0.33%

13.4 Shed Loom Efficiency

Required Running Loom Picks per day  = 1,005,100 picks Loom Shed Efficiency           =               1,005,100  picks x 100                                                       24 hrs  x  60 mins/hr  x 760 Rev/min                                                  =         92.00 %

13.5 Production Efficiency

A. Average running Pick       = 57 B.  Average Speed (RPM)     = 750

Production Efficiency              =    RPM   x 60 mins/hr  x 24 hrs      ( Loom Wise)                               Picks/inch  x 39.37 inch/meter                                                            =     760 x 60  x 24                                                                     57  x 39.37                                                            =    488 meters @  100 %                                                            =    448 meters @  92 % per loom/day

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W o v e n  F a b r i c  C a l c u l a t i o n
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I : x p r c s s e d  a s  a  l p a c t i o l  o f  t o t a l  : l l ' e 3  S 1  r   s 2 .  t h e  s h a c l e d  a r c a  b c c o n t c s :
5 a
h , x a r r p l e :
A  p l a i l  c o t t o r r   f a b r i c  i s  w o v e n  t o  t h c  f b l l o w i r r g  d c t a i l s :   r v a r p :  2 0  t e x ,  2 8  e n d s / c m .
W e f i :  3 5  t e x ,  2 5  p i c k s / c m   ( d e n s i t y  o f  c o t t o n  1 . 5 2  g / c m 3 )
W h a t  i s  t h e  t o t a l  c o v e r  f - a c t o r ?
W a r p  c o v e r :  C r : 4 . 4 4 x  r / : O l t . S U   x  2 8  x  l 0 - 3
: 0 . 4 5 1 ;
W e f l  c o v e r  :  C z : 4 . 4 4 x r / : S l t . S Z   x  2 5  x  l 0 - 3 - 0 ' 5 3 3
T o t a l  f r a c t i o n a l   c o v e r   i s  c 1  +  c :
-  C r c - - r : 0 . 4 5 1   +  0 . 5 3 3
- 0 . 4 5 1 x 0 , 5 3 3   : 0 ' 1 4 4
l ' h e o r e t i c a l l y ,  a b o u t  7 4 o / o  o f  t h e  t o t a l  a r e a  o f  t h i s  c o t t o n  s h e e t i n g   i s  t h e r e f b r e  c o v e r e d  b y
v a r n .
d r d : :   C l s y  C 2 s 1 /  s 1  x  s 2
-   C r C :
b e  d e d u c t e d  f i o r n  t h e  s u l n  o f ' C l   a n d  C 2 ,
T o t a l  f i a c t i o n a l  c o v e r
=  C t  *   C :
-  C r  C :

14.0 Q.C. Fabric Testing:

          All Greige fabric must undergo Quality Assurance Grading and testing to ensure that all fabrics are on the right track of quality prior to Finishing.

14.1 Response to Equipment Faults:

            Following are the response to be taken in case of any equipment faults:

Equipment	Response
Loom power  faults	Call Electrical Maintenance
Loom and fabric Settings	Call Mechanical Maintenance
Batching device, Weft settings	Call Mechanical Maintenance
Any other mechanical fault	Call Mechanical Maintenance
Any other electrical fault	Call Electrical Maintenance
Loom air problem	Call Utility Maintenance

14.0  Machine / Area Cleaning:

       To ensure complete cleanliness on the floor as well as Loom machines, following measures are taken:

·       Clean all parts of loom and free from any cotton fluffs..

·       Loom reeds, harness and drop wires must be maintained clean through out run

·       Clean the entire loom shed, floor, walls, mezzanine and air humidification system

The Maintenance Department performs the preventive maintenance task as per the PM schedule. Refer to maintenance Specifications (Document No.) for details.

15.0 APPLICABLE FORMS & DOCUMENTS

Forms & Documents Used

The necessary forms & documents used for Weaving process are listed below:

1.     Knotting Report         (form no._____________)

2.     Beam Gaiting Report  (form no._____________)

3.     Production Report      ( form no.____________)

4.     Maintenance Report   ( form no.____________)

5.     Draw-in Report           ( form no.____________ )

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16.0 Document Flow

The document flow of the above documents is as follows:

Production and Maintenance activities in Weaving department shall be recorded and make reports in daily basis and send it in all department concerns and to Factory General Manager.

Knotting report (Form no.) is prepared by the Knotting officer everyday where all details of the fabric knotting are being specified according to Article code and send copy to Factory General Manager.

Gaiting Report ( Form no. ) is prepared by the concerned Weaving Gating Officer signs on it and send copy to the Factory General Manager.

Production Report ( Form no.) is used to record details of production output and efficiency on daily basis including Loss Production and Fabric Faults report and send copy to the Factory General Manager.

Maintenance Report (Form no. ) is prepared by the concerned Weaving Maintenance officer and send it to all department managers and copy to Factory General Manager

.

Draw-in Report ( Form no. ) is prepared daily by Draw-in officer and send copy to Factory General Manager

 Attachments:

Examples of all applicable forms and documents are attached.

Feb 2012

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